January 9, 2017
Whilst looking to build some breakout boards I remembered the Sick of Beige (SoB) “standard” of PCB footprints designed by Dangerous Prototypes. DP have made a really cool set of PCB footprints in various sizes with the added bonus of being designed to be case friendly.
Dangerous Prototypes have a great page describing the various PCB sizes here:
My first Sick of Beige (SoB) board is SoB DB9, using the DP5050 footprint. This is a handy little breakout board for those wanting to build their own 9-way D-Type interfaces be it for RS232, RS485, CAN bus or any other project.
A standard 9-way D-Type (Male) connector provides the interface with 3.5mm Screw Terminals connections provided for easy interfacing. In addition a Male Pin Header connections is also provided. Two small circuit prototyping areas are also provided.
– 9-Pin D-Type connector (Male)
– Easy to Connect Headers
– 3.5mm Screw Terminals
– 2.54mm Pin Header
– small circuit prototyping area x2
– Compatible with Sick of Beigh DP5050 footprint
– Board Dimensions: 50 x 50 mm
– 3.2mm Mounting Holes x4
– Industrial Control
As usual you can find them on my Tindie page here
December 26, 2016
A quick teaser for my next Raspberry Pi MIDI project:
September 29, 2016
Relay2 is my latest RPi Zero add-on board. It’s designed to control low voltage and small-ish current devices such as DC motors, servos etc.
Relay2 is a 2-ch Relay board with two Change-Over (CO) relays. Each relay is good for 30V AC/DC at 1A. The relays can handle a greater voltage than 30V but given the close proximity of the actually RPi Zero board I would not recommend going above 30V. The relays are easy to select via GPIO headers and they use 3-way Screw Terminals.
You’ll find them on our Tindie store real soon.
August 30, 2016
I’m very pleased to show off our latest Raspberry Pi Zero add-on boards.
The board in the top of the picture is PIOO UserP0rt which features a 16-ch port expander and 8-ch ADC using the MCP23S17 and MCP3008 ic’s.
While the board in the bottom of the picture is PIIO ADC16 which is a 16-ch ADC board and features 2x MCP3008 ADC’s (each 8-ch, 10-bit).
You’ll find them on our Tindie store real soon.
January 18, 2016
Another bunch of new PCB’s. This time for the Raspberry Pi Zero.
In no particular order, there’s a serial RS232 board, a GVS I/O board with ULN2803 for servo’s etc., a Breakout board (I2C, SPI, UART and GPIO) and another MIDI interface ;-).
More details/info shortly.
As usually you’ll find them on our Tindie store.
December 4, 2015
After ordering the new Raspberry Pi Zero I suddenly realised I didn’t have a suitable micro USB cable adapter to connect either a keyboard or mouse to it. Now common sense would have been to go back on-line and order either suitable cables or a suitable micro USB hub but as the maker saying goes “necessity being the mother of invention” so I decide to make my own. In this case a non-powered micro USB hub.
Getting the base components was easy. A quick call into a “pound” (or the equivalent dollar, euro etc.) shop got me a micro USB data/charging cable and a USB hub as shown for the princely sum of £2.
The basic tools are:
Screwdriver (flat and/or Philips)
Open USB Hub case
Depending on the screws used in the USB Hub case you may need a Philips screwdriver to open the plastic USB Hub enclosure. In my case, the Hub’s plastic enclosure was clipped together and a bit of squeezing and gentle persuading with a flat bladed screw driver saw it come apart.
De-solder USB Cable
Once the USB hub is apart you should see a small PCB with a number of USB connectors and a cable. Make a note of the wire colour and positions. De-solder the existing USB wires from the PCB. Carefully apply heat from the soldering iron to the soldered wire and when the solder melts, gently lift the wire away from the PCB pad.
Prepare micro USB cable
With the wire cutters, cut the USB A connector (the bigger of the two USB connectors) off the cable. With the wire cutters or a small knife/scalpel cut back and remove about 2cm of the external cable insulation. Using the wire strippers, strip about 5mm of insulation from each of the individual wires. Finally, for each wire twist the copper strands and using the soldering iron, “tin” them and repeat for all wires.
Soldering the new cable
Remembering to use the info from the note you made earlier ;-), match the wire colour’s to the PCB pad and solder the first of the new wires from the micro USB cable back on to the USB Hub PCB. Repeat this for each of the wires in the micro USB cable. Once finished, check your work for any solder bridges and/or dry joins.
Putting it back together
Once you’re soldered all the wires back on the USB Hub PCB, reassemble it back into its plastic enclosure. You may want to add a tye-wrap to act as a strain relief for the micro USB cable.
April 15, 2015
RPi Breadboard+ is a solderless prototyping breadboard add-on for the Raspberry Pi. Using the breadboard and female to female wires you can quickly prototype and test your electronic design.
A large portion of the add-on is taken up by a 140-pin breadboard and surrounding the breadboard on all four sides are a number female headers.
All of the Raspberry Pi GPIO signals are brought out to two 16-pin female headers located near the top and bottom of the breadboard. 3.3V (5-pin), 5V (5-pin) and 0V/Ground (12-pin) power supplies are also brought out to female headers located to the sides of the breadboard.
The add-on features 3x LED’s (red, yellow and green) and 2x push-button tactile switches each having a 2-pin female header for easy use with the rest of the board.
Size wise it conforms to a standard HAT board size (65 x 56mm) and mounting holes. So its compatible with the Raspberry Pi A+, B+ and Pi2.
There is an EEPROM PCB footprint for future HAT configuration compatibly but its not fitted on this version.
You can find them on Tindie here.